Radical Stroud Comes To Town: London Pub
and Literary Walk
We are not sure when we shall make this
trip (WE DO NOW: NOV 29th), but I thought I might post it for others to enjoy, recce and navigate.
The walk takes in pubs with noteworthy interiors as well as two or three short
literary pilgrimages. If half-pints of
beer were to be slowly consumed at the pubs on our trail, together with soft
drinks too, then memory should be active and, inebriation, as well as bladder,
controlled. We recommend an early train: all these precautions should avoid any
spoonerism on the return journey. No town drain for our party. Alternatively, if
you don’t trust yourself, take two days over this public house peregrination.
1.
Assuming you arrive from the West Country and into Paddington, then
let’s take the Bakerloo Line to Oxford Circus and a trip to the Argyll
Arms, Argyll Street (by Oxford Circus tube):
‘The interior dates from 1895 and has been described as ‘one of the
most magnificently decorated pub interiors in England’; it has unusual small
cubicles in the front bar, with cut glass screens, decorative mirrors and
elaborate mahogany. The Luftwaffe as well as Modernity managed to miss this
example of fin de siècle social stratification.’
2. Next up: the Tottenham in Fitzrovia, 6
Oxford Street. It’s going to be busy but early doors might allow us to enjoy
the Victoriana in this grade 2 listed building.
3. We then walk past old haunts around UCL to
get to 7 Roger Street and the Duke of York. ‘A grade 2 listed art deco
treasure.’
4. It’s now time for a pub break and a
bit of culture and so we then walk to 48 Doughty
Street and Charles Dickens’ house and museum.
5. After
that, we toddle off to High Holborn to sample the delights of the Cittie of Yorke (1920s) (number 22) and
the Victorian Princess Louise (208-9).
6. Next, a visit to Clerkenwell Green for
both a literary and historical pilgrimage. It is here where the Artful Dodger
and Fagin led Oliver Twist into pickpocketing; it is here where radical
Lollardy thrived: ‘When Adam delved and Eve span, Who was then he gentleman?’ It
is here where Chartism was nurtured in the 19th century and it is
here where Marxism was also fostered: we’ll look at 37a Clerkenwell Green, the
Marx Memorial Library, as well as the Crown Tavern at number 43 (where legend
has it that Lenin and Stalin had a chinwag in 1905).
7. We’ll
also make a trip to Spa Fields behind Exmouth Market in Clerkenwell. This was
the site of the radical meeting for extension of the vote in 1816, when Henry
Hunt spoke in favour of a peaceful widening of the franchise. Revolutionary
followers of Thomas Spence marched on to the Tower, robbing a gunsmith’s en
route. The Spenceans were a revolutionary group dedicated to equality, but were
infiltrated by agents provocateurs. Executions occurred after the Cato Street
Conspiracy (meeting place near the Edgeware Road) of 1820, when the group
planned to assassinate the Cabinet.
8. Now it’s time to go to Fleet Street and
the Old Cheshire Cheese at 145. Rebuilt after the Great Fire and no natural
lighting inside today; lots of gloomy rooms; lots of 19th century
paneling; cellars possibly 13th century (site of a Carmelite
Monastery); regulars have included Goldsmith, Twain, Tennyson, Conan Doyle,
Chesterton, Dickens (a scene from A Tale of Two Cities also set here) and
possibly Johnson.
9. Talking
of which, it’s now time to visit Dr. Johnson’s house just over the way in 17
Gough Square, off Fleet Street. Then off to:
10. Blackfriars
Pub, 174 Queen Victoria Street; Art Nouveau pub; saved from demolition in the
1960s with support from John Betjeman.
11. Then a walk to the Old Mitre Tavern, Ely
Court, Ely Place, Hatton Garden, Holborn Circus: ‘There's a sense of discovery when you find the Old
Mitre Tavern. It's hidden down an alleyway between 8 and 9 Hatton Garden,
marked by an old crooked street lamp and a small sign in the shape of a
bishop's mitre, the arched alleyway entrance has a sign above stating "Ye
Olde Mitre 1546". Despite these clues many who work in the area don't know
it exists. This tiny pub is a real hidden gem. ‘
12. Now to Bunhill Fields Cemetery, City
Road EC1:
‘This old burial ground, shaded by mature plane
trees, is situated on the edge of the City. Bunhill Fields was first
set aside as a cemetery during the Great Plague of 1665. The ground was
never apparently consecrated and twenty years later it became a popular
burial ground for Nonconformists, who were banned from being buried in
churchyards because of their refusal to use the Church of England prayer
book. Bunhill Fields was soon known as ' the cemetery of Puritan
England'. Although much is now cordoned off, it is still possible to
walk through and find monuments to John Bunyan, Daniel Defoe and William
Blake, as well as to members of the Cromwell family. John Milton lived
in Bunhill Row, on the west side of the cemetery, from 1662 until his death
in 1674. Some of Milton's greatest works were written here, including 'Paradise Lost'. Across the road from
Bunhill Fields is the Methodist Museum and John Wesley's House. ‘
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13.
And so to the Salisbury, 90 St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden:
The building went up in 1892, a restaurant
by the name of the ‘Salisbury Stores’ (see the double ‘S’ in the windows); it
was converted into a pub in 1898, hence the massive mirrors, eye catching
fitments and art nouveau ambience.
14. Now on to the Hand and Shears, Cloth Fair, 1 Middle Street,
EC1:
‘This delightful
little pub is a good example of an early nineteenth century alehouse. Its plain
and simple interior has matchboarded walls and an oak floor. Although small, it
is divided into four bar areas, each served from the central bar island. One snug
is so small, it can hold only about eight customers.
A 12th century alehouse stood here, in the precincts of St. Bartholomew's Priory. In August 1133, the first cloth fair was held at Smith Field nearby. Tailors and drapers came from all-over the country to ply their trade. By Tudor times the Cloth Fair had taken on an official role for Merchant Tailors, whose officers would check cloth with a yard stick. Offenders caught giving short measure, were brought to the alehouse and their case heard in a court upstairs. The guilty were put in stocks or whipped.
Eventually the alehouse was officially adopted by the Merchant Tailors of London and was allowed to display the guilds sign, the 'hand and shears'. The Lord Mayor opened the fair from the steps of the pub. The last one was held in 1855. Poet John Betjeman who lived nearby was a regular.’
A 12th century alehouse stood here, in the precincts of St. Bartholomew's Priory. In August 1133, the first cloth fair was held at Smith Field nearby. Tailors and drapers came from all-over the country to ply their trade. By Tudor times the Cloth Fair had taken on an official role for Merchant Tailors, whose officers would check cloth with a yard stick. Offenders caught giving short measure, were brought to the alehouse and their case heard in a court upstairs. The guilty were put in stocks or whipped.
Eventually the alehouse was officially adopted by the Merchant Tailors of London and was allowed to display the guilds sign, the 'hand and shears'. The Lord Mayor opened the fair from the steps of the pub. The last one was held in 1855. Poet John Betjeman who lived nearby was a regular.’
15. Next stop:
Viaduct Tavern, 126 Newgate Street – ‘This impressive corner pub faces its famous namesake, Holborn Viaduct.
Queen Victoria opened it in 1869, the Viaduct not the pub, although they were
both opened in the same year. Holborn Viaduct was the world's first flyover,
connecting Holborn with Newgate Street, avoiding a deep dip in the road caused
by the River Fleet. Although this striking Victorian pub has a large curved
frontage, the interior is surprisingly small. Many of the original features
have survived. On one wall, three paintings of wistful maidens represent
agriculture, banking and the arts. The 'arts' was attacked (some say shot,
others bayoneted) by a drunken First World War soldier, and she still bears the
scar.’
16. Now to the Dog
and Duck, Bateman Street, Soho:
‘Many famous
historical figures have enjoyed the hospitality of The Dog and Duck, including
John Constable, Dante Gabriel Rossetti and George Orwell. The pub was
originally built in 1734 on the site of the Duke of Monmouth's home. The
present building was built in 1897, and is considered to have one of London's
most exquisite interiors of the period, characterised by thousands of highly
glazed tiles.’
17. Next up: The Red Lion, St James’s:
‘One of London's most
magnificent pubs, a real must on any visitor's list. From the outside it looks
pleasant enough, plain brick with some ornate ironwork, typical of many in
town; inside there's a wonderful and surprising contrast.
Dazzling 'brilliant-cut' mirrors cover the walls, their intricate patterns sparkle as they catch the light, giving the impression of a much bigger space. This pub is really quite small and it seems remarkable it was once divided into several smaller bars. The island counter made from rich polished mahogany adds to the glare. Glass and mirrors were very fashionable in the late 1800's and as the technology improved, the designs became more ornate and intricate. To modern tastes it may seem almost too garish.
Built in 1821 on the site of a previous pub, the Red Lion was redesigned in the 1870's. It is often described as a 'gin palace' but was refitted long after the 'mother's ruin' gin era. This pub was designed to impress and create an aura of opulent respectability. It served the staff of the surrounding grand houses and, in its own way, provided some of the sumptuous 'above stairs' living for those 'below stairs'.’
Dazzling 'brilliant-cut' mirrors cover the walls, their intricate patterns sparkle as they catch the light, giving the impression of a much bigger space. This pub is really quite small and it seems remarkable it was once divided into several smaller bars. The island counter made from rich polished mahogany adds to the glare. Glass and mirrors were very fashionable in the late 1800's and as the technology improved, the designs became more ornate and intricate. To modern tastes it may seem almost too garish.
Built in 1821 on the site of a previous pub, the Red Lion was redesigned in the 1870's. It is often described as a 'gin palace' but was refitted long after the 'mother's ruin' gin era. This pub was designed to impress and create an aura of opulent respectability. It served the staff of the surrounding grand houses and, in its own way, provided some of the sumptuous 'above stairs' living for those 'below stairs'.’
Addendum:
The below could be a bolt-on or it could be part
of a separate journey; it involves London’s lost rivers, together with Highgate
, Kentish Town and Hampstead.
Nicholas Barton’s ‘The Lost Rivers of London’
is, of course, a watery mine of information: the River Fleet rises in Highgate
and Hampstead and those sources fuse at Camden Town (old prints show it flowing
between what is now Camden Tube station and The Mother Red Cap pub – but then,
the tube station was the site of St. Pancras Workhouse). The river now winds
its way below Kentish Town Road, St. Pancras, under the Regent’s Canal, King’s
Cross, then west of King’s Cross, under Farringdon Road, Holborn Viaduct
(Holborn = Hole-bourne = stream in the hollow) and so to the Thames.
The River Tyburn has two sources in Hampstead
and Belsize Park. It flows down through Swiss Cottage to Regent’s Park, across
the Regent’s Canal by aqueduct, with its old eastern bank denoted by the
winding line of Marylebone Lane (St. Mary by the bourne); then along Baker
Street to Piccadilly (Tyburn Road is now Oxford Street); then east of Grosvenor
and Berkeley Squares, below Lansdowne Passage, under Piccadilly, down Green
Park towards Buckingham Palace and so to the Thames (btw, the Tyburn Tree
gallows were near what is now Marble Arch and Tyburn Lane is now Park Lane).
We can pick up some of this on our pub walk but
we may also want to visit Karl Marx’s grave in Highgate Cemetery (close by
social-Darwinist Herbert Spencer’s grave: Marx and Spencer) and have a walk
around Kentish Town and Hampstead to see John Keats’ house and that nightingale
tree.
This might necessitate a visit to the wonderful
Holly Bush in Hampstead.
Finally, when we are out east, we have to think
about the River Walbrook, flowing into the City (have a look for Bloomfield
Street and Curtain Road) and when we return to Paddington, we have to reflect
on the River Westbourne and the prevalence (eleven) of street names in the
Paddington area denoting that lost river, whilst there is also a Bourne Street
in Chelsea, near the river’s destiny at the Thames.